Sailing on the SPV Star Flyer 2011

This year in June Albert and I once again took the opportunity to sail aboard the SPV Star Flyer in the Mediterranean Sea. This would be our fourth cruise on one of the Star Clippers sailing ships.

Our voyage this time started from Monaco sailing on to Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily and ending in Malta with one full day at sea. An especially interesting route for us as we have not visited any of these island before.

We arrived in Port Hercule, Monaco late afternoon on the Saturday with plenty of time for the embarking procedure before the first sailing. The SPV Star Flyer was alongside at the port and I have to say that the sight of these beautiful ships never fail to impress me. New to us were the electronic boarding cards we received with our photo on them, which we were to keep with us always when disembarking from the ship at the various ports of call.

A familiar face greeted us at the gangway – Alfredo has coincidently been on board on each of our cruises and we were very pleased to see him. Our cabin was again on the Clipper deck and we immediately made ourselves at home unpacking our cases ready for the coming week. Our Captain this week was Captain Klaus Müller, most probably the only captain who also enthusiastically plays the bagpipes, as we were to find out during our cruise.

At ten o’clock it was time to set sail. It was not possible to avoid the lump in my throat as the sails were raised to the sound of “Conquest of Paradise”.

First port of call: Calvi, Corsica

After the mandatory lifeboat drill in the morning we arrived at Calvi on Corsica. Calvi is quite spectacular seen from the water with its three immense bastions, a lovely semicircular beach and the snow-capped mountains in the background. According to Calvi’s own legend Christopher Columbus was born there and a small monument of him can be found at the base of the citadel along with a “Columbus House”. It is well worth taking a walk up to the citadel for the spectacular views across the bay..

All aboard again at 5.30 pm to prepare to set sail again. Dinner on these cruises must be mentioned – the food is superb. The hotel crew certainly do a magnificent job, performing absolute miracles in the small galley. A week on board one of the Star Clippers sailing ships is definitely not the best time to diet!.

Next stop: Porto Cervo, Sardinia

Porto Cervo is the main port on the Costa Smeralda (the Emerald Coast), an enchanting coastal area developed and financed by a consortium led by Prince Karim Aga khan in the 1960’s as an elite holiday destination for the rich and famous. Porto Cervo itself is extremely attractive and extremely expensive – not a place for mere normal mortals. It’s easy to see how the Emerald Coast received its name with its beautiful emerald green water.

We took part in the excursion along the Emerald Coast ending with a snack of very tasty Sardinian cheeses and Sardinian wines. Sardinia actually has about twice as many sheep than inhabitants and much of their now famous cheeses are made from sheep’s milk.

In the evening we were invited to a “Back on Board” cocktail with the Captain, a special greeting for the repeaters on board. The sun deck was full of invited guests because voyaging aboard the Star Clipper’s vessels is very addictive.

Tuesday: Cagliari, Sardinia

At 1.00 pm we docked alongside at the port at Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia. The upper town’s old quarter is dominated by the Pisan fortifications of the Castello. It appears to be a formidable walk to reach the highest point to see the spectacular view over Cagliari but I was told there were lifts to help ease the way. .

We took the local bus to the beach, which was approximately a 15 to 20 minute drive away. The beach was surprisingly long, at least 3 kilometres, and very clean. The water was crystal clear and very inviting.

Wednesday: at sea

Captain Klaus said that on board the Star Flyer you could learn “slowliness”. A whole day at sea is the perfect way to do exactly that. There is, to my mind, no better way to learn “slowliness” than by laying in the nets attached to the bow spirit of the vessel and watching the waves underneath you.

The weather permitted the sports team to arrange mast climbing and Albert braved the heights and was rewarded with a unique view of the ship. I’m not brave enough to do that but someone has to stay down and take the photographs!

An absolute highlight was the fact that we were able to go out in the tenders and circle the ship to take photos of her in full sail. It was an impressive sight and we were thrilled to be able to take part.

The evening program was called “Dancing under the Stars” and a great many guests did exactly that. It’s a fantastic experience dancing the night away on board with a breeze blowing, stars shining and the music playing.

Thursday: Trapani, Sicily

The SPV Star Flyer arrived early morning in Trapani, a city on the west coast of Sicily and the capital of the province of Trapani. At first glance it appears to be a very unimpressive town but a short walk brings you to a surprisingly beautiful old town with extremely impressive architecture.

That evening we were honoured to be invited to the Captain’s table for the Captain’s Dinner. Afterwards the crew, especially Joey from the Bar, entertained us with a “Talent & Sketch Show”. Joey and Inca from the sports team performed a hilarious rendition of Beauty and the Beast and Joey’s performance of the one-armed violinist brought tears of laughter.

At 10.00 pm we were up on deck enjoying the sail away.

Friday: Porto Empedocle

Due to the short notice change of itinerary the Star Flyer docked for the first time at Porto Empedocle – and I sincerely hope for the last time! There is nothing to report about this little port town as there is nothing there and it is very ugly. The little sandy beach was a short walk from the harbour and would have been quite lovely had it not been for the large chemical factory directly next to it..

The guests who opted for the excursion had made the best decision and were treated to a valley with 28 Greek temples. Unfortunately we chose not to take the excursion, not realising beforehand that Porto Empedocle was not the prettiest of places.

The SPV Star Flyer sailed away towards Malta at 4.00 pm and, knowing it was the last evening, it was rather sad watching the sails being hoisted this time.

Saturday: Valletta, Malta

We were told that it’s a wonderful sight sailing into Valetta harbour and, because we also wanted to see the sunrise, we duly got up at 5.30 am (no easy feat considering we did not get to bed very early). It was definitely worth it though; the light from the rising sun made the harbour of Valetta glow golden.

Making such an early start meant that we had plenty of time to enjoy the rich breakfast buffet one last time. I can recommend the freshly made omelettes – delicious! We had a late afternoon flight so there was no rush and I was able to say goodbye to some of the wonderful people we met on board, some of whom I’m sure we will be seeing again in the future.

Valletta is a very interesting harbour city and it’s well worth a sightseeing visit if time permits. We opted for the shorter version by horse-drawn cab and were not disappointed.